Things you may want to consider…
We know you want to be sure you are making the right decision in purchasing a puppy/dog
Before formulating your list of questions to ask us during phone calls or in email’s, please
take some time to read through our FAQ’s as we may have already answered your
questions below. If you find that after reading through all the FAQ’s, you still have
questions that we have not addressed here, please call or email us for more information.
If you have purchased a dog from someone other than Hoosier Heartland Goldens and you have
questions, you should contact the person/breeder/store in which you purchased the dog.
They should know best how to answer your questions. We know how to appropriately
answer questions about our dogs because we know their history, pedigree and their level
of care.
1). Is my decision to purchase one of your dogs the only factor in obtaining one of
them?
While it is very important that you have confidence and a comfort-level with us, we do not
sell our puppies without having a comfort-level with you. We reserve the right to refuse to
sell our dogs/puppies to anyone. We take great pride in our puppies, the way we care for
them and the way in which they are considered part of our family, before they join yours.
Therefore, while you will likely have many questions for us, we in turn will ask many
questions of you. We make every effort through our communications with you to be a good
judge of character and to ensure our puppies are adopted into loving homes where they
will be properly cared for. You can expect that we will ask questions such as: “Will your
dog be kept inside or outside?”, “Will your dog be a family member”, “How many children
and other dogs/pets do you have?”, “how many hours will the dog be left alone each
day?”, etc.
2). What days and hours are you available to speak with me?
Please keep in mind we receive many inquires each week and we have posted FAQ’s to
save us time and to help get you the answers you want quickly. We answer and return
calls as soon as we possibly can. Please, leave us a voice mail message, we will make
every effort to return your call as soon as possible. If you do not hear from us within 24
hours please try again. We ask for your understanding as the care and attention given to the puppies and adult dogs must remain our first priority.
3). How many pictures can I expect to receive of puppies I am interested in and
how often will I receive them?
We try to accommodate every family’s request for pictures. We do, however, try to get weekly pictures posted to our private FB Group as well as live videos. Remember I do work a full time job as well as raising these precious babies so there may be times when I cannot accommodate everyone’s requests for photos.
4). May I come to your home and pick out my own puppy?
No! After the puppies are 6 weeks old we will schedule time for an open house for each family to come and meet the puppies. This is a time for families to interact with me, the puppies and each other. These open houses are scheduled via our FB Group. After the open house each family will pick their top 3 favorites of the gender they want and I will then make the final decision on which puppy is best for each family.
5). Do you require a deposit to hold my puppy or get on our Waiting List for future
litters?
Yes. When being placed on a waiting list a deposit is required once the puppies are born. Please call or email with inquires.
6). Are your prices negotiable?
Our puppies have been priced according to their specific pedigree, history, quality of their
care and the high level of service we provide to you, the buyer. We are confident that our
puppies are priced accordingly and therefore our listed/quoted prices are non-negotiable. Prices for puppies are currently $2800.00.
7). Do you ship dogs/puppies? Is it safe?
No. We do not currently ship puppies. However, it is a safe to ship puppies, we just do not choose to do so at this time.
8). When can I pick up my puppy?
You may pick your puppy up when they are 8 weeks of age and no sooner. Gotcha Day will be scheduled and posted on Private FB Group. Evites will be sent out and confirmed times will be planned accordingly.
9). What type of food are the puppies eating?
Our puppies are fed “Pro Plan Sport 30/20”
It is important to continue feeding the food the puppy
has been accustom to for several weeks. Weaning
over a period of time will help eliminate tummy issues.
10). What type of toys do you recommend?
Like with babies our concerns are choking, strangulation and poisoning including lead in
toys. It is difficult to watch your pup every second so providing safe toys to play with and
chew on is very important. Nylabone and Kong both make several products for
“aggressive chewers”. The most important thing is that small bits will not come off. A good
quality rope is fun, but if the strings start coming apart it can turn into a dangerous toy as
would the fiber from a stuffed toy. Balls and frisbees are essential for a retriever.
11). What size collar and leash should I buy for my 8 week old puppy?
A lightweight 6-9 inch collar and 6 foot leash is standard for an average size 8-10 week old
retriever pup. Remember, your puppy will outgrow this collar quickly.
When unattended a collar can become a strangulation hazard. If your dog/puppy becomes
entangled with a branch on a bush, a larger dogs jaw while “puppy” playing, a fence or
???? The collar can quickly become a noose cutting away air supply. The puppy may not
even be able to bark to let you know that he/she needs you.
We highly recommend www.breakawaycollar.com
12). How can we ease the transition for our puppy from sleeping with their siblings
to sleeping alone?
We suggest bringing a towel, toy or blanket with you when you come to pick up your puppy. You can then rub this on mommy dog as well as any littermates here. This will have the smells of our home and their siblings on it to soothe them while they transition into the comforts of your home. You may
find that your puppy prefers to sleep with a stuffed animal that is their same size or a bit
smaller. This may remind them of sleeping with one or all of their siblings. They tend to
sleep piled on and cuddled with one another, so your puppy may enjoy snuggling or
sleeping on top of a stuff animal. Some schools of thought recommend getting a wind-up
alarm clock and placing it under a fluffy blanket to resemble their mother’s or sibling’s
heartbeat. You might try putting an unlaundered t-shirt in your pups crate he/she will be
bonding to you even as they sleep. Unless you prefer to have your puppy sleeping in bed
with you every night, this may not be a habit you want to start. Try to imagine sleeping
with a 65-75 pound puppy on your bed in a few months.
13). Do you recommend we enroll our puppy/dog in obedience training?
Absolutely! You and your puppy will be much happier if you are both trained. It is best to
begin these classes after your pup has completed the vaccination series, around 16
weeks. Speak with your vet or trainer for his advice.
14). Are there any books you recommend we purchase as a first-time puppy/dog
owner?
How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford
The Perfect Puppy: How to Raise a Well Behaved Dog by Gwen Bailey
Help! My Puppy is Driving Me Crazy: A Guide to Solving Common Puppy Problems by
Diana Delmar
15). Are there any websites you recommend we visit as first-time puppy/dog
owners?
http://www.raisingspot.com/intro_bringing_puppy_home.php
http://www.professorshouse.com/pets/dogs/first-time-dog-owners.aspxhttp://101-dog-training-tips.com/Puppy_Training/index.shtml
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/bring01.html
16). When will I receive my AKC paperwork/registration documents?
When you pick up your puppy, we require that you pay your AKC fees at that time to me. We will then register your puppy for you online with AKC and you will receive your paperwork in the mail within 2 weeks directly from AKC.
17). What are some common issues that may occur after my puppy/dog comes
home with me?
Diarrhea: A stressful situation might be: changing their environment, water and/or food may
affect your puppies elimination habits. You may be able to ease this by adding a teaspoon
of plain yogurt with active cultures to their food. Be sure not to let the puppy become
dehydrated. Consult your vet.
Chewing: all puppies have a tendency to chew. It is up to you to teach your puppy what
they can and cannot chew. If they chew something you don’t want them to (a table leg),
remove them from the area and give them something they can chew (a Benebone/Beef shank/femur bone). Giving them an alternative will help them learn what is off-limits and what is acceptable. There
are many training books out there that address this subject and we recommend you buy
and read one before bringing your puppy home with you. It may save you some
heartache.
Pottying in the house: some puppies are easier to potty-train than others. It is a dog’s nature
not to want to potty in the place where they sleep (in their “den”). We attempt to teach our
puppies this at an early age, by separating their sleep/play/eating area from their potty
area in their pens. We place newspaper in their potty area and many of them get used to
going on the paper before they come home to you, however we do not make any
guarantees of you receiving a potty-trained puppy. That part is up to you and your
preference. There are different schools of thought on how to potty-train your puppy, some
of which include newspaper training and crate training. We leave this part up to you and
your personal decision and preference. Again, this is where purchasing and reading some
puppy books may save you time and flooring.
Worms: can be passed from the mother to the puppy while in the womb or during nursing.
At 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age, we administer de-worming medication. If you notice worms in
your puppies stool, this is normal cleansing. Your puppy will receive as many as 4
treatments until a culture is clear. Please consult your veterinarian for suggestions and/or
further treatment. Soon their own immune system will be taking care of this by itself.
18). Do I need to take my puppy to the vet upon bringing it home?
Yes. As Per our Purchase Agreement, you must take your puppy/dog to your veterinarian
within 72 hours of bringing it home. If a hereditary problem is found, we must be notified by
your vet in writing immediately.
19). What is your refund/replacement policy?
Per our Purchase Agreement:
“All of our puppies are guaranteed to be in good health when purchased. We guarantee
the puppy to be free of any life-threatening hereditary defects for 1 year from date of birth.
A licensed veterinarian must examine your puppy within 72 hours of delivery. Seller does
not guarantee against communicable diseases such as giardia, coccidia, parvo, etc. If
there is a debilitating illness or disease, the breeder’s veterinarian will interpret the report
and if he/she concurs, then a replacement puppy will be given. There will be no cash or
credit refunds. Hoosier Heartland Goldens offers replacement puppies only. Replacement
will be made within 1 year.
Preparing for your Puppy!
Below are ideas on how you can be more prepared for your new
puppy to arrive. Good reading material will be educating,
encouraging and exciting BUT we also need material that will help
to remind us of the realities that are possibly even more important…..training puppy not to chew on the dining table leg or
not to go potty on your favorite rug, and what to do about all that
extra hair floating around.
Joys and Frustrations of New Puppy
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/newpup.html
Happy Housetraining
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/hsetrain.html
Puppy Chewing
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/pupbite1.html
Making Peace with Dogs and Cats
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/dogscats.html
Things You May Need When Puppy Comes Home
Paper towels (a lot of paper towels 🙂
Old Towels for Crate
Once puppy is reliably crate trained, a “real” crate bed can be used.
Watch for chewing…if so remove bedding for a while and try again.
Old Blanket or Towel(s) to cover wire Crate (Den)
Cotton balls for cleaning ears
Acrylic (Fake) Nail file, cardboard with sandpaper type, for smoothing nails
Hydrogen Peroxide (to induce vomiting, if necessary)
100% Pure canned Pumpkin (from the baking isle of your grocery store)
Pumpkin is a good source of fiber. When puppy has diarrhea or constipation, a tablespoon or
two with every meal for several days should help alleviate symptoms. Freeze excess in ice cube
tray.
Plain Yogurt excellent for any tummy issues
Baby Gate(s)
Try baby supply stores – generally more choices and cheaper than pet stores (Beware that
horizontal bars provide a foot-hold for climbing puppies. Also consider spacing between bars,
as some times that space is large enough for little puppies to get caught)
General from your Pet Supply Store:
Nature’s Miracle (gallon size) or similar stain/odor neutralizer
Bitter Apple (bitter taste deters dogs from biting, licking, and chewing)
Pooper Scooper & bags
Food and water bowls (stainless steel or ceramic)
Storage bin for dry food
Adjustable Nylon collar w/plastic clasp / light weight
(small, very temporary) (8 inch)
I.D. Tag
(e.g. See http://boomerangtags.com for their flat collar tags for adjustable collars. They also sell
collars with tags included for the smaller sized dogs).
6 foot (1.8 m) leash / light weight
15 foot (4.6 m) or longer (up to 50 foot (15 m)) training leash(es)
Wire Crate for crate training Double door folding crate with divider (we’ve heard good things
about both Midwest and Precision brands)
Large Dog (42-48 inch) dogs may use crate into adulthood)
Travel Crate for car until puppy is big enough to wear a car harness
Food and Treats:
Puppy Food:
It is best to start with the same food the Breeder is feeding… Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy
Puppy Biscuits:
Training Treats:
Soft & tiny treats work best for training. Pieces of cheese, or homemade Liver Training Treats
Good Chews and Toys:
Medium or Large Kong Toy
Stuffed Dog Toys w/ squeakers (with supervision~ can choke on stuffing)
Balls (tennis balls, squeaky rubber balls)
Soft Frisbee
Rope toys (good quality cotton with knots)
Nylabones (medium or large for heavy chewers~solid off white color)
They are playing with stuffed, and soft plastic squeaky toys now……..
HOWEVER they are going to start chewing more soon and they may choke on little pieces
or on the stuffing.
Grooming Supplies:
Pin or Slicker Brush
Medium tooth Comb
Blunt tipped curved blade scissors
Toothbrush Kit
Puppy Shampoo ~ No Tears
Puppy Conditioner / Grooming Spray
Ear Wash solution (very important with Goldens)
Plier-style nail clippers w/nail guard
Blood Stop Powder
Additional Items:
Bell to hang by back door
Helps with house training, they learn to ring the bell to alert you that they need to go out.
Some use large craft bells, some use cow bells (e.g. http://www.bell-outlet.com/cowbellb.htm)
Ownership & Training books
Recommendations include: “The Dog Listener”, “Puppies for Dummies”, and many more…
Make appointment with Vet for new puppy wellness check up.
Start shopping for Obedience classes and a Trainer that you respect.
Lots of Love and Patience 🙂
Socializing your puppy!
HOW DO WE SOCIALIZE THE PUPPIES?
We take our job of socializing our puppies seriously and it is our Joy.
We expose the puppies to the sights, textures and sounds of a normal family home.
Our puppies are handled from birth, then on the third day we begin holding the puppies
in different positions and handling their feet, ears, nose and mouth with our fingers, a Qtip
an eraser, a spoon etc. By 3-4 weeks of age the puppies are playing with their siblings and
mom and starting to do a bit of exploring. They play with lots of different types of toys to
stimulate learning and are able to begin going outside around 5-6 weeks of age.
From 5 weeks on we also are working with the puppies on:
* House Manners
* Walking with a Leash
* Introduction to Dogs, Cats etc.
* Riding in a Vehicle
* Basic Commands
* Grooming Coat & Clipping Nails
The following information was written by a breeder in Ohio. Thank you Paula Drake (Akita’s)
It so well described our thoughts that I wanted to share it with you.
Socializing Puppy
The period between three and 16 weeks is very critical in a dog’s development. This time is referred to
by dog experts as the canine socialization period. During this time, a puppy learns about the world in
experiences a puppy’s memory is developed which he lives. Everything is a first impression. Everything
is a new experience. From these first
A puppy is part genetics and part environmental experiences. A reputable breeder has done his part in
producing puppies with strong, stable genetic predispositions. At three weeks, a puppy is ready to be
molded by each new day and all it brings. It is very important that the breeder expose the young puppy
to a safe, happy world full of stimulation,
gentle challenges, and positive rewards.
Learning during this socialization period is permanent. The puppy carries those first impressions
throughout life. It is so important these socialization experiences be positive.
Specifics learned during this period include learning how to play. The mother dog teaches the basics,
then the puppy tries its new skills with its litter mates. Then the breeder introduces toys, reinforcing
the fun and reward in playing by the rules. Other important socialization skills to be learned include
housebreaking (being a neat dog), spending time in a dog crate (having some quiet time), walking on a
leash and coming when called (knowing who is boss), and fitting in with the pack (learning respect for
family members).
By seven or eight weeks a puppy may be ready to expand its world from the breeder’s home to its own
home. A breeder knows when each individual puppy is ready to leave the comfort of its litter. The
breeder then matches each puppy with a home suited for each puppy’s temperament. It is imperative
the new family continue with daily socialization and positive new experiences.
The most stable dog is the one who has had a multitude of good first experiences. This dog knows what
is normal and what is not. This dog knows humans are good, can be trusted, and will provide food,
warmth, and love.
Shaping a puppy during the socialization period is all up to us. With our love and understanding a
puppy will develop to its full potential. Nothing less should be acceptable. It is the best chance for a dog
to have a long healthy life in one home and not end up losing its home because of behavioral problems
problems that could have easily been avoided with proper socialization as a puppy followed by
additional socialization and training in the new home. When such problems develop, who is at fault? The
dog?
Canis Major Breeders Round Table ~ Paula Drake
